Done Rovin’ in Dovan

Today’s route: Dovan to Machhapuchhre Base Camp

Starting elevation: 8,202ft
Finish elevation:  12,196ft
Ascent: 4.845ft, Descent: 1,121ft
Fitbit active zone minutes: 37 (on reflection, this is actually a good thing – the whole intent when hiking at altitude is to try to keep your HR as close to normal as possible – so I guess the lower, the better!)
Quote of the day: “I feel I pushed it back into my body” – Alison (I’ll leave you all to fill in the context here)
(runner-up: “I got a hole in one” – Rachael (same subject, squatty potties)

Today was another BIG day as we continued to ascend up through Annapurna Valley as we left Dovan and headed towards Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC).  There were more spectacular views during sunrise this morning and I managed to get some great shots of the light streaming over the tops of the mountains.  I didn’t sleep all that great as I’m still heavily congested (cue mouth breathing and disconcerting mucus trails running down your face) but the cold meds seemed to be working well this morning and I felt halfway decent on the trail.  I can tell the Diamox is definitely working as I get weird tingling sensations in my fingers about an hour after taking it (apparently this is a very common side effect) – and I guess its working to prevent altitude sickness – but its really hard to tell how the altitude is affecting me because of my cold!

The area that we were going to be hiking through included several that were prone to avalanches, so Sandip impressed on us the need to keep moving through them as quickly as possible and to keep our crampons handy in our day packs should we need them.  In fact, the exact route that we were to pass through suffered a big avalanche a couple of weeks previously in which a Chinese trekker was killed on his return back from ABC.  A little bit sobering – but we were in very good hands with our guides, so we weren’t overly concerned. https://kathmandupost.com/national/2025/04/05/body-of-missing-chinese-trekker-found-dead-after-avalanche-near-annapurna-base-camp 

We headed out of Dovan just after 7am and after about an hour, we reached Upper Dovan, the site of a sacred temple where it was forbidden to have any meat in the vicinity.  It was opposite an impressive set of waterfalls, cascading down the opposite river bank.  We continued to hike through bamboo and rhododendron forests, ascending (mostly) with a bit of descending, crisscrossing rivers as we went.  We got to the first of the avalanche-prone zones – but the snow wasn’t too bad, so we were able to safely navigate it slowly with just trekking poles – and Sandip positioned just below us to catch us if we fell (except for Aqua!).

After some more pretty waterfalls, we reached our lunch spot of Deurali (3200m) where I found myself a lovely sun spot, took my hiking boots and socks off and laid back against my backpack and chilled the eff out.  At each meal, we had to pre-order what we wanted for the next meal, so that it would make things easier for the cooks at the tea houses.  I had ordered a cheese and tomato sandwich and was looking forward to something light and tasty, rather than the heavy rice and noodles and pasta dishes I’d been trying to force down (I guess it must be the altitude or maybe the cold but I’ve had zero appetite all week).  What appeared was not your mother’s cheese sandwich.  I still don’t know quite what it was – but it was not light OR tasty.  I deemed it Weird Cheese Sandwich – which then turned into the “everybody say weird cheese sandwich” whenever we took a group picture!  I will say, though, that our lunch stop had an absolutely spectacular toilet – it had a proper seat, it flushed and was very clean.  It was a toilet I would be happy to have a poop in.

After lunch, we continued to wend our way uphill, passing through more avalanche areas and cherry tree forests with pretty pink blooms.  We were joined by a very cute golden dog who had come to say hello to our group at the tea house – and decided he was going to help escort us up to MBC.  The weather was getting steadily colder and the skies were overcast with cloud and haze (the air quality even up here is still rated as unhealthy).  The trail underfoot wasn’t too bad – there were some stairs but it was mainly rocky ground – which presented its own challenges to navigate.  The trail was a lot busier so we often had to stop and let others pass, whether it was other hikers descending or porters carrying heavy loads.  It was all very friendly with lots of Namastes thrown around – at one point, we must all collectively have looked knackered as several groups who passed us gave us encouraging sentiments (“its so worth it! “you’re doing great!”)

As we’ve all been hiking together for a few days now, various trail names have begun to emerge.  We already mentioned Donkey Knees yesterday for Sandip (our lead guide).  Now both Alicia and Mila (assistant guides and sisters) had been bestowed their names.  Alicia was crowned Queen of the Trail or Queenie for short, as she was in complete command of the trail and we all felt utterly safe in her hands.  Mila was named Stair Master (or Monster) as she just ate up the thousands of steps on the trail as if they weren’t there!   Kerry was named Tootsie (enthusiastic fartmeister), Alison was named Glitter Girl (GG for short), Aqua was named DeDe (sister), Amanda was named Hand Eater and I was named Fingerchips.  Forest and Rachael are as yet unnamed – but there are a few more days on the trail left, so I’m sure an opportunity will present itself.  There is a petition to name either Forest or Amanda Red Tingler – but we should probably leave it at that.

We made great progress, slow and steady, and – just before 4pm – we saw the sign for Machhapuchhre Base Camp.  We had made it!   Well, almost.  The actual tea houses were about another 15mins hike beyond the sign – which enraged Alison no end (“they lied!!!).   But finally we really made it – and I felt a great sense of accomplishment!  The views were incredible and we all treated ourselves to a hot chocolate to warm up and savor our success.  I spent the evening catching up on my blog before retiring around 8.30pm.  Tomorrow we finally reach our goal – Annapurna Base Camp!!!  So excited!!!